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Andrew Reilly & Ben Barry 
Crossing Gender Boundaries 
Fashion to Create, Disrupt and Transcend

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This volume presents a collection of the most recent knowledge on the relationship between gender and fashion in historical and contemporary contexts. Through fourteen essays divided into three segments – how dress creates, disrupts and transcends gender – the chapters investigate gender issues through the lens of fashion. Crossing Gender Boundaries first examines how clothing has been, and continues to be, used to create and maintain the binary gender division that has come to permeate Western and westernized cultures. Next, it explores how dress can be used to contest and subvert binary gender expectations, before a final section that considers the meaning of gender and how dress can transcend it, focusing on unisex and genderless clothing.


The essays consider how fashion can both constrict and free gender expression, explore the ways dress and gender are products of one other and illuminate the construction of gender through social norms. Readers will find that through analysis of the relationship between gender and fashion, they gain a better understanding of the world around them.

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Introduction


Section One: Creating Gender



  • ‘Bifurcated Garments and Divided Skirts:  Redrawing the Boundaries of the Sartorial Feminine in Late Victorian Culture’ – Kimberly Wahl

  •  ‘“Hard and Straight”:  The Creation of Nineteenth Century Masculine Subjectivity through Corsetry’ – Alanna Mc Knight 

  •  ‘Mirror Epiphany:  Transpersons’ Use of Dress to Create and Sustain Their Affirmed Gender Identities’ – Jory M. Catalpa and Jenifer K. Mc Guire

  •  ‘Withering Heights:  High Heels and Hegemonic Masculinity’ – Elizabeth Semmelhack


  • Section Two: Disrupting Gender



  • ‘Cute Men in Contemporary Japan’ – Toby Slade

  • ‘The Politicisation of Fashion in Virtual Queer Spaces: A Case Study of Saint Harridan one of the Pioneering Queer Fashion Brands in the Twenty-First Century’ – Kelly Reddy-Best

  • ‘She Was Not A Girly Girl: Athletic Apparel, Female Masculinity, and the Endorsement of Difference’ – Christina Bush

  • ‘Gender More: An Intersectional Perspective on Men’s Transgression of the Gender Dress Binary’ – Ben Barry and Andrew Reilly

  • ‘In-vest-ed Meaning:  Gender Ambiguity in Costume Collections’ – Katie Baker Jones and Jean L. Parsons


  • Section Three: Transcending Gender



  • ‘The Politics of the Neutral: Rad Hourani’s Unisex Vision’ – Rebecca Halliday 

  • ‘Shirting Identities: Negotiating Gender Identity through the Dress Shirt’ – Valerie Rangel

  • ‘Why Don’t I Wear Skirts?  Understanding Dress Behaviour through Historical Contexts’ – Jung Ha-Brookshire

  • ‘Critical Mascara: On Fabulousness, Creativity and the End of Gender’ – madison moore

  • ‘Clothes (Un)make the (Wo)man – Un-gendering Fashion (2015?)’ – Hazel Clark and Leena-Maija Rossi

  • Circa l’autore

    Ben Barry is dean and associate professor of equity and inclusion in the School of Fashion at Parsons School of Design. Using qualitative and creative methods, his scholarship primarily explores the relationship between masculinities, fat and disabled bodies, and fashion.
    Contact: Parsons School of Design, The New School, 66 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10011, USA.
    Lingua Inglese ● Formato PDF ● Pagine 235 ● ISBN 9781789381160 ● Dimensione 73.6 MB ● Editore Andrew Reilly & Ben Barry ● Casa editrice Intellect Books ● Città Bristol ● Paese GB ● Pubblicato 2020 ● Scaricabile 24 mesi ● Moneta EUR ● ID 7339151 ● Protezione dalla copia Adobe DRM
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