A. McDowell 
Instruction Book 
Drafting and Cutting Dress, Basques, Sacks, Coats, Etc

Whilst the greatest effort has been made to ensure the quality of this text, due to the historical nature of this content, in some rare cases there may be minor issues with legibility. The invention of our method of measurement, and the machine to simplify it, are the result of our careful study and experiments with the various systems, charts, etc., in use. We have devoted the last twelve years to investigating this subject, and found that when these charts or systems were used their success was due entirely to the judgment, talent and experience of the party using them, and that the systems themselves proved most indifferent guides, and were only satisfactory when the good sense of the dress fitter detected their mistakes and rectified them. While most of these systems and charts claimed to give actual measures, nine out of ten were merely proportional scales, some on pasteboard and called charts, and others on tapes and squares, called systems.<br><br>Each was based on the idea that all forms were perfect and exactly similar, and that, because one lady was straight and fully developed, every lady must be the same, forgetting that ladies’ bodies vary as absolutely as their faces, and that to base a system on the measures of any particular figure as a guide would equal the absurdity of selecting a photograph of a beautiful face to represent the features of all mankind.<br><br>Some ladies after buying a paper pattern that gives no satisfaction, are surprised that her neighbor, with similar bust and waist measures, procures a pattern that fits her perfectly. Experience only teaches that the old style charts, systems and patterns are inaccurate, and that we have no reliable rule of proportions.<br><br>Having arrived at this conclusion years ago, we discarded the old theories, and have since devoted our time to perfecting a method to overcome the objections to the various systems in use, and then, in so simplifying that method that anyone could use it correctly.<br><br>Our system of actual measure is the simplest in use, and yet gives the contour of the body, or shape of the lady, more perfectly than an